Wow. We’re more than halfway through October and no sign of a hard frost! The old saying goes “No frost until after the full moon in October.” AccuWeather’s long range forecast doesn’t predict under 40 degrees until the month’s last week. So, at least for this year, the adage is not holding true. I say sit back and enjoy the ride because predictions are calling for an El Nina year. That means a colder and wetter winter. So no complaining about raking as it looks like there may be plenty of shoveling in our future!
With the explosion of shrub rose varieties, you probably don’t have hybrid roses. But if you do, it’s time to prep them for winter. Loosely tie the canes together and prune them back a bit, then surround the plant with a rose collar. Have some unfrozen topsoil or bark mulch handy. Once the ground freezes, mound about 8 to 10 inches of mulch over the crown of each plant. Although late November is usually a good guess for timing, you might want to wait until mid December. Your hardy shrub roses won’t require this kind of protection. Wait until spring to prune them and though it isn’t necessary, applying an added layer of mulch after we get a hard frost certainly won’t hurt.
And using the same timing as the roses, go ahead and apply winter mulch around your more tender perennials and shrubs. Pay special attention to those tender perennials like butterflybush, big-leaf hydrangea and hardy hibiscus. Leaves from your trees and grass clippings are not a good choice. Marsh hay or evergreen boughs make the best protective mulch. The idea behind the practice is to use materials that will keep the air spaces intact and not mat down.
It’s been mild, so you have some more time to transplant and divide tough perennials like hosta and dayliles. If you’re still planting, make sure to apply a root stimulating fertilizer. Bonide makes a good one, aptly named Root Stimulator. Consider mulching them once the ground begins to freeze or mulch them in a sheltered spot for the winter season. I put mine in large nursery containers and mulch around them. You’ll have all winter to figure out where to plant them in the spring. Clean up and discard foliage from any plants that had mildew or leaf spot problems during the growing season. Do not put this material in your compost pile as it might re-infect your garden in the spring.
Protect any young, thin-barked trees from frost-cracking by applying a paper tree wrap to the trunks. If you have had problems with rodents or deer, use the sturdier plastic tubes. This is temporary though. Be sure to mark your calendars to remove any tree wraps in late March or early April. And use some lengths of old nylon stockings to tie up the multiple leaders of arborvitae and upright junipers. This can prevent any splitting caused by heavy snow.
When the temperatures do begin to fall, apply an anti-desiccant like Wilt-Pruf to your broadleaf evergreens, being sure to follow product directions. Moisture can be lost throughout the winter from the foliage of rhododendrons, boxwood and hollies, leaving you with golden-brown, crispy plants in the spring. If these plants are sited in a windy spot, or afternoon sun, think about putting up a burlap screen to protect them.
Wait until January or February to do dormant-season pruning of trees and shrubs. Remember that spring flowering trees and shrubs have already set flower buds for next spring, so any pruning will remove blossoms. And unless they are creating a hazard, leave your evergreens alone. Late pruning can cause serious winter damage.
If you don’t mind an untidy garden, remember that perennial silhouettes in the winter garden can be very attractive and provide cover and food for birds. Grasses and coneflower heads in particular add a nice dimension and texture. So consider leaving them intact until spring.